Sunday, April 12, 2009

Hall Of The Mountain Grill.



About halfway along Portobello Road is, I suppose I should say was but bugger it, a café called the Mountain grill. It’s a working class café very popular with musicians and roadies who like to exchange gossip and drugs. Pills mostly, blues and dexies, but grass isn’t hard to find. The Bangers and Mash isn’t bad either. Good hash is still something of a rarity. Finding Red Leb for instance involves a mini-safari into darkest Westbourne Park where you have to take your chances with the surly looking rude-boys at the Rio.

So the Mountain Grill occupies a strategic, some might say symbolic, location where two worlds meet. Down beyond the Westway flyover is Hawkwind country, Lemmy Kilmister’s end where things get seedy…down among the wheelers and the dealers and the basic riffs and rhythms. Up towards Notting Hill Gate you will be more likely to find students and weekend dropouts, trendsetters, entrepreneurs, assorted Jerry Cornelii, Lord Kitchener’s valets and perhaps even the odd Paddington Bear.

Syd Barrett wanders into the Mountain Grill.
“You look a bit rough this morning Syd,” says Lemmy, “A bacon sandwich will soon fix you up.”
“Really greasy. Wash it down with a nice cuppa.” Suggests a wit.
Syd looks confused. He feels more comfortable in Holland Park to be honest. He finds it more attuned to his delicate Cambridge sensibilities. But here he is in the Grill so might as well sit down.
“Has anybody seen my dog?” He asks, “She's a collie.”
“Today’s Special.” Says another wag. “Shepherds Pie.”

Through the steamy windows it is possible to see VW vans recently arrived from the exotic East. They are disgorging bundles of Afghan jackets, scarves, incense, natural oils, colourful bed-sheets, Kandahar shirts, Moroccan leather bags, Tibetan prints, rock posters, and tabla drums which recently contained mind altering substances. The fuzz are active but not yet equipped with sniffer dogs. Stalls are being set up in amongst the fruit and veg, the fake antiques and the cut-price crockery.

All this is happening right outside the Mountain Grill. Simon is inside transcribing the scene into a notebook. Discretely. He’s still not totally confident of his literary abilities but making notes has become a habit. If anybody asks him what he’s writing he mumbles something about the underground press. He’s noticed how the bands round here like to talk about being revolutionary but nobody says no to an appearance on Top Of The Pops. Look at Bolan. Hopping around on TV like some kind of psychedelic elf.

After he’d got back to England Simon had spent a few days at his parent’s house. Just long enough to get cleaned up. But he’d still felt restless. As if he was still on the road. His old bed felt too soft or something. Also there were some obvious changes going on in England, music, clothes, something was happening and he wanted to be part of it.

He moved to London, crashed at somebody’s pad for a while, feeling out the scene before renting a bed-sit in Ladbroke Grove from somebody called Rachman. Getting an article about Istanbul into International Times had been surprisingly easy. Miles had been very encouraging. Write some more he said. How about something about India? The overland route? But Simon is in two minds. His first effort had been well received, according to Miles, but Istanbul’s low-end tourist facilities had been overwhelmed. Such is the power of the press that apparently the toilet at the Gulhane Hotel had been blocked solid a mere month after publication. Simon felt partially responsible.

Syd meanwhile, after much reflection, has decided against a hearty breakfast. Poor Syd. It’s all rather sad. One acid trip too many is the general consensus. Fried his brains. They watch him wander out onto the street in pursuit of who knows what strange hobby. Not even beans on toast can tempt him back from the outer reaches of the galaxy.

Simon writes…“The Hippy Trail is really just a state of mind…”

5 Comments:

Blogger tony said...

Syd eating a Bacon Sandwitch is a bit like God eating a sausage roll.Not Impossible but,from this distance,hard to believe.........

5:34 PM  
Blogger Istvanski said...

Fascinating stuff. The area lost its magic once Richard Curtis got his greasy mits on it.

4:20 AM  
Blogger dh said...

Yeah, yuppification was inevitable in retrospect. Now the tourists all want a glimpse of Hugh Grant.

8:08 AM  
Blogger Momentary Madness said...

Funny to go through an era and I - must admit - can’t say much about, in relation to other times of existence, and it's effect.
In the scheme of things it was very little, and another fifty years will I imagine wipe most memory of it away except for the odd book about it. Some music will no doubt last a little longer.
So dh keep writing to keep us alive after we’re long gone.

10:50 AM  
Blogger dh said...

Thanks mm. I often wonder if it means anything to people who weren't there at the time. But I keep doing it...it's better than watching TV.

9:05 PM  

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